Snorkeling at Imorigue Island

So you have done all the tours in El Nido Palawan from Tours A, B, C, D and E. The west side of El Nido, the Bacuit Bay in particular does have dramatic limestone karst islands and captivating beaches, but El Nido doesn’t end there. The other side, the El Nido east coast holds more islands to explore and stunning white sand beaches to bum around. Sibaltan is the jump off point for these island adventures. I have written about some of the islands of Linapacan, now discover the limestone island of Imorigue Island. From afar it looks daunting but the locals swear on how rich the marine life surrounding its waters are.

Imorigue Island seen from the side angle

Imorigue Island

We were on a small outrigger boat good only for about 6–8 people. I joined a foreign couple, judging from their language, they were from France which I have been used to hearing by now knowing a lot of French business men in El Nido. I was hoping I didn’t ruin their supposedly “Private Tour” with me tagging along but they don’t seem to mind. The waves were their usual self, not too rough and manageable and the sun was way up promising a good day. We were approaching Imorigue Island, and I got amused on how its shape changes as we got closer. From the shore, it looks like a small towering island, almost pyramid-like but when we were already beside it, I marvelled at its length. It’s like one of the many islands in Bacuit Bay that got lost somewhere and ended up on this side. There were also limestone walls where balinsasayaw (swiftlet) harvesters stay.

We passed by another islet towards the other end of the island. Under the island shade we stopped on our first snorkel spot. The water was deep blue and everyone was excited to jump in. The current was moderate and it was easy to swim in. The water clarity is not as good as the one in Binulbulan Island when we island-hopped Linapacan. But the corals here were quite expansive and impressive. I did not see the big fishes there but the tropical fishes were plenty. I had a good enough time to snorkel before we moved to our next stop.

The island view from the side with an islet

Some small fishes near this coral

Pristine set of corals

Our guide diving near the reef wall

Cabbage like corals fill the wall

A closer look at the coral

Malapari Islet and Dewil River mangrove on the next pages…

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As far as the eyes can see. San Vicente Long Beach

All eyes were on me. Somehow, my presence interrupted what seemed to be an early morning trade of freshly caught fish and other seafood. I was running the upper stretch of the San Vicente Long Beach in Palawan and just reached the rocky cliff cutting the long stretch of this white sand beach on the other side. I was already heading back when I caught this small crowd and it seems from their reaction, they don’t get as many visitors as early as this morning. “Magandang umaga po! Ano pong meron dyan? (Good morning! What’s in here?)” I asked, bringing out my best smile which seemed to have broken the tense and curios atmosphere. I was reciprocated with the genuine smiles from the locals and they went on with their bargains, weighing-in of goods and sale. I went on with my run back to where I started.

The San Vicente Long Beach seen from a hill

Undeveloped Beauty of a Beach

In my first few days of stay at JuRiSu Resort in the midst of San Vicente Long Beach, I have only seen one traveler, a foreigner, in that part of the beach. The first time I’ve actually stepped on the famed 14km white sand, I wanted to see for myself if the sand was as fine as people say. Yes it was, it felt soft under my feet. It stretches as far as the eyes can see with no marring structure to be seen. San Vicente has caught the eyes of developers already and much of the land are bought. Good thing the local government already have an ordinance of a no-build zone 50meters from the beach. This is also to safeguard any structure from high tide surge during unfavourable weather. From my wandering I’ve only stumbled upon Club Aguttaya, a posh boutique resort with pool nearing completion.

There were abundant growth of beach crawler plants, like the morning glories (ipomoea) adding greens and purples to this beautiful beach. It is also more than a relieving site since the extracts from their crushed leaves is a quick first aid salve for jellyfish stings. Good thing I had no use for it that time when I came to swim at the beach one afternoon. I saw a group of young kids enjoying their time on the beach and was enticed to take a splash as well. The beach has more rocks than sand which I really liked and the waves were playful. I stayed there until sundown even after the kids went ahead. The isolation was sort of a bliss. The purple sky calming and the clouds looking glorious with all those spilling lights.

Pure and pristine

Morning glories creeping to the beach

View to the northern side

Huts from the private resort Club Agutaya

Encounter with the locals of San Vicente

Wide, clear and swimmable

Sunset splendor and essential information on the next page…

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A life-size replica of a pangko in Sibaltan El Nido

There was a night in Sibaltan, El Nido where a group of performers from the Sibaltan Heritage Society (SHC) showcased a few Cuyonon folk dances. Cuyonons, are an ethno-linguistic group that originated from Cuyo Island. I watch at least five pairs of young boys and girls enthusiastically dance on the sand, under somewhat dim light of the night from Tapik Beach resort. The sound coming from a boom box was all treble with scratchy bass but the performance was all heart and passion as we could see the expressions from the young performers as they execute dance steps highly Spanish-influenced, often upbeat to jumpy with a lot of swirl movements from the girl. I could not understand the lyrics but I was told these dances are often about Cuyonon life – livelihood, courtship, marriage that are often depicted with witty naughtiness to slightly obscene which is a character of Cuyonon songs. Watching this humble spectacle made me imagine how the Cuyonons manage to cross the Sulu Seas, traversing at least 100 nautical miles to reach the shores of Paragua, what we know now as the land of Palawan. The newly built Pangko Maritime Museum in Sibaltan, sheds some light into the history of Cuyonon migration.

Museum grounds in Sibaltan

The Pangko Maritime Museum

My motorbike driver cautiously rode the narrow dirt path hemmed by a growth of coconut trees. Once a while, glancing above to see if any old coconuts or leaves are are ready to fall out. I remember this road before, north of the town after the school and basketball court. It leads to a small community by a river with heavy growth of mangroves. I visited this place after checking out Sibaltan’s first museum the Balay Cuyonon. The Pangko Maritime Museum would be the second museum in town.

Pangko is a Cuyonon term for “sakayan” which means “to ride or a ship”. It is also what they call the traditional boat used by Cuyonons to venture the seas from Cuyo Island to Palawan. With little agricultural land left on the small island, Cuyonons decided to explore the mainland of El Nido Palawan and use it to rice planting. Pangkos were then used regularly both as a passenger and merchandise vessel from mainland to Cuyo island vice versa. Some Cuyonons opted to stay in Palawan since then. Pangkos were used until the 1950s but the heavy storms which often caused the vessels to capsize lead it to evolve to motorize boats to manage navigating on rough seas. “Lantsa” modern motorized soon replaced the pangko and eventually ceased to be used.

Cuyonon Anthropologist, Carlos Fernandez, asked SHC if there are still existing pangko in Sibaltan when he visited in 2012. Sadly, there was non but research yielded detailed descriptions care of the elders who used them before. The idea to build a replica of a pangko materialized when SHC received funding from the American Alliance of Museums through the project proposal from Ms Lace Thornberg for “Ancient Shores, Changing Tides” in July 2013. It was in April 2014 when five carpenters began construction of the pangko replica led by Mr Pablo Eleazar, the only carpenter currently alive who have experience building a pangko.

On the deck of the pangko

Onboard the Pangko

At first look the replica of the boat at the Pangko Maritime Museum is similar to a balangay from Butuan. It measures 13 meters long, the hull seems bigger and more depth than a balangay. I had to use a ladder to go up the boat. The plank woodwork is excellent. The deck has an even ground with a low-lying hut on top. There’s access below the deck where earthen jars, baskets and other tools used by Cuyonons are in display. The hut also have some tools, interestingly with Cuyonon names. The most popular section of the boat though is the native toilet seat with an opening straight to the sea. Unfortunately some of the tools were missing. I was told by the caretaker that some of them were “borrowed” which was personally quite amusing. It was a good effort for the local tourism and SHC to bring to life the pangko with this replica which will strengthen Sibaltan as the cultural side of El Nido Palawan. As I sit on the deck looking at the sea, I can half imagine the journey the Cuyonons did to reach this land. Now I wonder if this pangko is sea-worthy.

The low hut with items on display

Cuyonon names with items

Under the deck

Earth jars and baskets used by Cuyonons

On the deck looking out to the sea

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Under one of the tropical beach huts of El Puerto Marina Beach resort at sunset

A 4–5 hours drive in a private van from Manila to western part of Lingayen, in North Pangasinan led us to El Puerto Marina Beach Resort. A resort that seemed to be at its lonesome on the western end of Lingayen Beach. Secluded and far-flung. Within its gate and fenced property is a fairly large area. There’s enough parking space for at least 5 vehicles. There’s a fishing pond, a pavilion for dining and if you look closely by the reception counter, a small pond with an arapaima.

The main two story building for the accommodations

Accommodations

There’s a good variety of rooms to choose from here. There are bungalows with stilts overlooking the pond, a two-story building with rooms designed for large groups. The ground floor has a dorm. The second floor has family suites. There’s also a new modern-style building nearer the beach with rooms also for large groups as it has bed rooms, a living area and a kitchen.

We stayed in a 2-bedroom family suite in the old two-story building with a nice cogon roofing and vintage style windows. The interior is a mixture or earthly tones from cream-washed walls, wooden furniture and other use of native bamboo materials. Aircondition worked fine though I wish they indicated that they don’t have complete toiletry kit here. Better bring your own dental set here.

Dining

Since El Puerto Marina Beach Resort is quite away from the town proper, their restaurant is the only choice to eat. Their food is quite good, mostly Filipino dishes and flavorful. I especially liked the local dried espada fish (beltfish) for breakfast.

Beach huts from El Puerto Marina

Activities

The whole resort area actually have pleasant breathing space and greens. There’s a small pool for kids with a theme straight out of a Temple Run game. A billiard table and darts can keep some of the guest occupied. A spa for that much-needed pampering. There is at the pavilion Wifi to keep techno-heads connected. The resort is also a good jump-off point for 100 Islands hopping tours. ATVs are available for road exploration, a speed boat and kayak for water adventure or simply bum around the expansive Lingayen Beach under their many tropical beach huts. The beach is just a short walk away and the resort has a line of beach cottages for guest use.

Espada breakfast

One of the room at the 2-bedroom family suite

The living room area at the family suite

Small pools

The new building near the beach

High gray sand at the beach

Illuminated huts at night

The Aquatica Marina water park on the next page…

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Fishermen early morning using traditional method of fishing

The guard seemed puzzled that a guest would be heading to the beach as early as four a.m. “Mag sho-shoot lang po sir! (I’m gonna shoot some photos sir!)” I said. “Ah cge sir! (Go ahead sir!” he replied with a smile as he unlocks the side door. It was the main gate from El Puerto Marina Beach Resort and its a few meters walk to the beach walking, by the resort fence on a dirt path. The nocturnal salty air got stronger as I near the shore. I seemed to have stirred the attention of a resident dog who doesn’t stop barking seeing (or was it smelling) my presence there. Another guard doing his round saw me and I sent a quick wave to let him know I saw him there and start setting up my tripod for a shoot. The landscape was well-lit by the waning crescent moon. I wanted to shoot stars but this dreamy and solemn landscape will do. Lingayen beach in all its vast morning-glory unseen in slumber.

Away from the crowds. A lone biker on the gray beach

Lingayen Beach

Gray to black beaches aren’t as popular as white beaches in the country. But if ever there’s a non-white beach I can recommend people, Lingayen Beach would be high on my list. The wide breadth and dune-like shores, the fine and oh so soft sands, gently sloping sea bed, often small lapping waves and a beach stretch as far as the eyes can see makes this beach far from ordinary. My first impression upon stepping on this beach with my companions were all good. No sunset that afternoon since the beach faces east but the low-tide and gentle waves carpeting the shore made a reflective ground mirroring the subtle pastel hues of a sky saying farewell for now.

Memorabilia from World War II on display

Remembering the Liberation

Lingayen Beach is actually at least 12 km long deep into the bottom curve of Lingayen Gulf. A site made significant when General Douglas McArthur landed on these shores when he liberated Luzon from the Japanese back in 1945. In fact, Lingayen celebrates this Leyte Gulf Allied Force Landing annually and this year had a grand 70th anniversary. A Lingayen World War II Memorial was unveiled in 2009 containing history panels, timeline of events, documents, paintings, WWII memorabilia and other artefacts. The memorial is at the back of the grand capitol of Lingayen.

Speaking of capitol, the Lingayen Capitol staunchly stands amidst tree-lined boulevard flaunting its beautiful neoclassical style architecture that has somehow survived the ravage of World War II when it was built in 1918. The capitol has gone through several restorations to keep its stately glory, though at times changes not loyal to the original would make heritage advocate weep to their dismay. Though at present, the yellow and white edifice is still a marvel to look at. Much more is the spiral staircase, the elegant rooms and the rest of the interiors. I remember having snack at the roof top here when I first visited the capitol during a Lakbay Norte tour, now at daylight, the surrounding area can clearly be seen. Students from nearby schools promenading along the boulevards and the public Lingayen Beach nearby.

Lingayen’s architectural gem, the neoclassical style Capitol

The provincial seal inside the capitol

Beautiful staircase

Wide gray sands

Glassy shore in the afternoon at Lingayen Beach

Night falls in Lingayen

Beach life and essential information on the next page…

The post Pangasinan | Lovely Lingayen Beach, A War Memorial and the Grand Capitol appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Morning view atop Mt Kupapey

The Cordilleras have many charming towns and villages nestled along hilly slopes high up the mountains amidst verdant forests. I simply enjoy just riding a public bus in the north, the ordinary non-airconditioned ones as the air passing through the window is fresh and cool enough for comfort. Often than not, country music blares through the speakers. As some Dolly Parton or Garth Brooks belt out some narrative tunes, I marvel at the passing scenery on the winding mountain road. Houses by the ridges, rice terraces, mountain gradients, and the thin mist or passing clouds lingering until they dissipate early in the morning. I am heading back to Maligcong, a village in Bontoc that’s slowly getting some curious look from Sagada and Banaue-bound travellers. Aside from being a side-trip, they are beginning to be a destination of their own. Here’s a few good reason why you should visit Maligcong now.

The only way to transport good to the farthest village of Favarey

Under the Tourist Radar

Sagada, Banaue and recently, Kalinga (for Apo Fang-od) are popular destinations in Cordilleras that tends to be really crowded especially during peak seasons. For those looking for a peaceful respite from the hordes of tourist, Maligcong is still unbridled by massive tourism and development. This small town, about half an hour from Bontoc town proper, is nestled high up the mountains.

Even water-filled rice paddies looks amazing

Equally Beautiful Rice Terraces

Each rice terraces in the Ifugao and the Mountain Province, have their own character. Maligcong Rice Terraces isn’t far behind in scenic quality. The stone-wall terraces spread far and wide the side of the mountains extending up to three villages hence where it got its name “surrounded by rice fields”. On top of Mt Kofafey (Kupapey) the rice terraces spread out like a spiderweb with the village of Fang-Orao on top.

A sea of clouds

Scenic Hikes

Walk through pine tree trails and enjoy summit views atop Mt Kupapey and Mt Fato. Imagine a star-studded sky during an early morning climb. One of the places to witness a sea of clouds sans the crowd (or sceaming #hugot crowds). Enjoy the serenity and what nature has to offer in all its pure glory.

A balance act. A lady traversing the rice terraces with a sack of goods on her head

Friendly Folks (and dogs)

The people of Maligcong don’t often see a lot of tourist. The Bontoc tribe dominates the land, and even until a few years back, there were still some elders living a life where they still wore traditional garbs. The people here are also known as fierce warriors. If you’re lucky, you might still see some elders with traditional tattoos. They also have a tapping tattoo tradition here like in Kalinga but uses a needle instead. The tattoo art has died though as no one is doing it art already. There’s a number of transplants from low-land regions too but already considered this place as home. There are no kids here (yet) blatantly asking for money or candy – they are simply playful to new visitors. Dogs are mostly treated as part of the family like Kunig, the homestay resident dog who also joins the guest at times to hike up the mountains.

passing clouds on a hill in Maligcong

Cool Weather

With an elevation of at least 4000feet above sea level, Maligcong also enjoys cool climes. I remember staying there in the new year long weekend and even if all my room windows were closed, I could feel the cold wind seeping in early in the morning. It a place to spend some precious idle time just soaking in the scenery. Suzzette’s homestay also serves locally brewed coffee and she makes a real tasty oat bar to go along with it. A great accompaniment while reading a good book.

Misty valleys and the rice terraces surrounding Fang-orao village

If these have convinced you to visit Maligcong in Bontoc, do join us in our Photo Tour Maligcong this coming October 9–11, 2015. Let us guide you through this charming town in Bontoc to take home memorable and captivating images. For details, visit Backpack Photography for more details.

Coffee and home-made oat bars while on the summit

Village of Favarey

A farmer on his way home

The post Five Reasons Why You should visit Maligcong Now appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Mael and his daughter going up the Savidug Idjang

I hopped in the #44 tricycle side-car owned by Mael, my driver who’s a native of Sabtang Island, born and raised in Savidug, a village at the central coast of the island. As with any tricycle in Sabtang, they have modified the look to add cogon roof making it look more native and offers shade on the ride. Mael’s young daughter of 8, who’s obviously clingy of her father joined us as we head to Savidug Idjang, just 1.2km south of the village. Idjangs are stone fortresses found in Batanes and the Savidug Idjang is considered the most impressive among the four found throughout Batanes. I’ve always admired the drum-like rock outcrop from afar, wondering what it is like to be on top of it and see first hand the ancient dwelling place of the Ivatans. This time I stayed overnight in Savidug village to climb it. Mael said he could take me there as his family has a patch of land near the idjang where he takes care of his goats and often go up the place as part of his daily morning chores.

View from the top of the Savidug Idjang

On Top of the Batanes Castle

The tricycle drove south along paved road and got off to a dirt path through a field of open greens. Parking under the shade, Mael took a container of drinking water for his goats, put in his shoulder and held his daughter’s hand while we walked. He dropped the container on another dirt path and said we’ll leave it there for now as we’ll go up the Savidug Idjang first.

We continued on the dirt path until we reached a stone path. This must be the ancient stone path I’ve read about leading to the Savidug Idjang. Mael said this has been here ever since he remembered. Large smooth stones of irregular shapes and sizes properly placed to form a pathway bordered by old-tree growths and occasional stone walls. The trees branches stretches forth as if reaching for each other on each side of the road. Their leaves offered shade to those walking along these ancient path. Many wilted fallen brown leaves found itself between the stone gaps. Somehow it felt enchanting just being there.

The trail continued on a moderate incline on the shoulders of the idjiang. Mael pointed me to the base of the fortress. The walls were already covered with roots but its still fascinating to see how they managed to cleanly curve these walls hundreds of years ago without machinery. The pathway continued on the other side where large field terraces, about 50–70cm high, descends down to a stream. Dr Eusebio Dizon of the archeology division of the National Museum, suggest that these agricultural land were used by the ancient Ivatans to grow root crops. The path becomes narrower and steeper with higher stone steps leading to the top. It’s not really high or difficult as I expected it to be. I remember a guide before telling me it would be tough to go up here and would require some ropes and rappelling skills to reach the top. But here we are, even Mael’s child had no trouble going up.

The Savidug Idjang from afar

The root-covered base of the idjang

Continue story and more photos on the next page…

The post Batanes | Savidug Idjang: Exploring the Ancient Dwellings of the Ivatans appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

The Microtel by Wyndham South Forbes

It is when getting soaked under the rain while road biking doesn’t completely matter. It was fun actually riding through a squall as we made our way back to our base in Microtel by Wyndham South Forbes in Silang Cavite. My GPS tracker logged in 8.6km one way coming from a bike trail in Nuvali using the colorful road-bikes we rented from the hotel. It was a nice gesture from Microtel to have a few towels ready by the entrance door as we were soaking wet.

Our 2-Queen bed room

In a Boutique Community

The Microtel by Wyndham South Forbes is still under the Silang, Cavite area but it is so close already to the Nuvali, Sta Rosa it is accessible by a few minutes bike. Not fancy pedalling? The hotel offers free shuttle service to Paseo, Nuvali or the Golf Course. It can also be a good base for exploring Cavite and Tagaytay. The hotel is within South Forbes, an upscale community with beautiful boutique houses nearby. It’s pleasant, quiet and the area is secure.

Hotel lobby

Microtel Standards

Having been to several Mircotel by Wyndham branches already. I’m all too familiar with the standard quality they offer. I give high points to their chiropractic beds, capacious rooms and facilities. The heart of Microtel by Wyndham is still here in the South Forbes – Nuvali branch with slight difference. They also have unlimited coffee station at the ground floor. They have a Japanese in-house concessionaire in Umenoya Japanese Restaurant where they serve complimentary breakfast and ala carte Japanese dishes like sushi, maki, tempura and more.

Dining at Umenoya

Parking for the rented bikes and vehicles

Corridor with artworks

Umenoya Restaurant

More on the attractions and summary on the next page…

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Minding the cattle at Vuhus Island Sabtang

An island of cows. I’ve imagined Vuhus Island to be a vast open plain where cows freely graze aimlessly in dense numbers, left alone by their owners to wander until the time they are ready to be butchered. The island, prominently seen at the western coast of Sabtang Island have always lured me from afar. It is one of the islands that welcomes travellers from the plane window while flying into Batanes. In my last visit to Sabtang Island, I finally got to step on Vuhus Island. Briefly explored its ocean channel and learned that life in a cattle ranch on the island. So the population of cows here seem to have an order too.

The rest stop north of Sabtang Island

Road to Nakanmuan

Satiated from the lunch at the Morong Beach, my guide and I decided to have a siesta time. High up on a hill, past the road leading to Morong Beach is an open rest stop with thatched roof where the breeze freely flows and surrounded sweeping views of hills, sea and the road behind. This is already at the northern tip of Sabtang Island. My guide, Mael, tells me, locals from the villages on the western side of the island would frequent this place as it is the last area where one can get cellular signal in Sabtang Island. I lay on one of the bamboo benches and amusingly found a gin bottle, still almost half-filled, tucked between the beam and the roof. I wonder if they use this in the evening when it can get extremely chilly at night.

When we continued on, the road opens up to views west of the island. Cliff-hugging winding roads with Vuhus Island constantly on our right side. What a desolate rugged coastal beauty. I particularly like the narrow roads cutting through some rocks. The road seems to have been recently paved unlike the poor condition the first time I was here. We reached Nakanmuan Village where it seems like a ghost town at that time of the day. People where probably enjoying their own siesta breaks. Mael looked for his friend who has a boat we could rent. A tataya, a smaller version of the falowa. Dark skinned from the sun, our boatman agreed and I agreed on a price for a snorkelling tour and time on the island. With nothing much better to do in the afternoon, it was good money for him.

The road cutting through the rocks

Stonehouses at Nakanmuan village

Launching our Tataya, a small boat without outrigger

Snorkelling at Vuhus Island on the next page…

The post Batanes | Vuhus Island: Snorkelling and Life in a Cattle Ranch appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Sunset at Duvek Bay

There’s a certain excitement on visiting far-flung locations. Maybe the idea of finding authenticity in a remote location drives us to go further beyond the tourist trail. Often times we discover gems in seclusion but that is not always the case. Sumnanga Village, the farthest of the Sabtang island villages found at the west side probably has the least tourist footprint on the island. It even took me at least eight years to return to this village despite having been to the island several times already. But sadly it’s another case of tainting my good memories of the place but thankfully there’s redemption in its natural beauty.

Ruins of Atanacio Dapilan’s house

Ruins of a Musician’s Home

My journey west of Sabtang Island continued after my visit at Vuhus Island. Nakanmuan Village was alive already that afternoon with people enjoying the milder weather. It only took a few minutes to reach Sumnanga village. Just at the roadside, before entering the main village, it is easy to miss the home of Atanacio Dapilan, an Ivatan farmer and fisherman who is also the first nationally published kalusan singer and composer. Kalusan is a rowing or farming song, sang in chorus by workers or boatmen. Kalusan is already a faint memory to the locals with only the melody faintly remembered. But with the help from the notations of a rowing song recorded by writer and politician, Noberto Romualdez and the teachers of Sumnanga who were able to record the original lyrics, they were able to piece together a kalusan rowing song.

This small piece of musical history on the island is personally highly interesting. Unfortunately, the home of the composer is still in ruins with nothing by overgrowth of plants inside. It would be interesting to restore and make a tourist center out of it where people can appreciate kulasan and other musical arts in Batanes instead of leaving it as it is.

Tiktiks. Crushing old stones and reselling them for use on modern houses

Attack of the Tik-tiks

I remember Sumnanga Village for its many hanging dried fish, particularly dorado, so plenty like the banderitas during a town fiesta. The place also had the moniker of “Little Hongkong” because of the narrow cobblestone streets it has. My last visit, I saw no dorado or dibang fishes hanging. This, I could understand as the fishing season varies. But noticeable are the modern-concrete houses in the area. My driver Mael parked his tryke near the basketball court and we walked around the village.

The town remains slow and laid-back. I passed by a group of men already having rounds of heavy drinks early in the afternoon. There was an adorable site of a generation of ladies, a toddler in a bike basket, a young girl of probably five pushing the bike from behind and most probably the mom manning the handlebar. The school ground looks nice with a carpet of natural green. Mael pointed me to a wash sink which he says used to be an ancient well. Well its gone now.

Crushing old stones to smaller pieces

This outdoor sink replaces what was once an old well

A local getting comfortable now in their modern house

A lovely scene of a mother and her daughters in a simple joyride in the village

At the village pier

Duvek Bay on the next page…

The post Batanes | The Dying Heritage of Sumnanga Village in Sabtang Island appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

At one of the ranches in San Pascual

I was enjoying lying on the bow of the large outrigger boat coming from Pasacao Port in Camarines Sur to our destination of San Pascual in Burias Island, Masbate. I wanted to enjoy the fresh sea air and not be bounded inside the tarp-covered windows of the shaded boat seats behind me. The splash from the ride didn’t reach the bow that much so I enjoyed the sea view and conversation from the local guide in the area. Suddenly there was a rustle of activity that led me to see what was happening. We were approaching the Burias Island already and just in time when the afternoon light came in, spreading its golden hue over the high cliffs bounding the bay where the municipality of San Pascual is nestled in.

Arriving at the port of San Pascual

San Pascual Masbate

I’ve heard and read good things about Masbate but never really found time to explore the place. Cowboys, cowgirls, Marlboro country and manta rays were my idea of Masbate. My trip to San Pascual to cover their Isla Rancho festival (which happens every 2nd week of May) this year gave me opportunity to discover the attractions on this part of the province. San Pascual is at the northern part of Burias Island, one of the three major islands of the province aside from Masbate island proper and Ticao Island.

San Pascual is located 27 nautical miles from Pasacao, Camarines Sur. It’s about 2 hours boat ride, making Burias Island probably the most accessible of the three islands coming from Manila or Naga City. There are 22 barangays scattered along the 24,632 hectares of craggy hills and open plains. The main livelihood of the region are livestocks, fishing, copra and corn production. Tourism is a fairly new endeavour the municipality is getting into. Though the infrastructure is still somewhat limited, the potential of developing the place is no doubt abundant. The beauty of going there now is there’s still little tourist in the area so you could enjoy the following things and discover San Pascual yourself.

Sunset at Busing Island

1 Go Island Hopping

With 122.3 km coastline and a fishing ground of 168,000 hectares, San Pascual has exuberant marine life enough for both local livelihood and preservation for tourism appreciation. Five islands all boasting with crystal waters can be explored: Tinalisayan Islet (1.5 nautical miles) has a short but fine white sand beach and a rustic scenic hill in overlooking the 80-meter long sandbar nearby. The large Busing Island (1.7 nautical miles) is a large island protecting the San Pascual Bay has its share of winding white sand beaches. Be mesmerized by Animasola Island (2.1 nautical miles) rock formations weathered by time and the elements. Spend a night or more at the native but comfy accommodations of the twin Sombrero Islands (4.5 nautical miles) and enjoy the natural white crushed coral beach and observe local fishers on their daily chores. The farthest Dapa Island (5.3 nautical miles) is said to have a cave home to a number of sea snakes.

Sunrise on a hill at Tinalisayan Islet overlooking the sandbar

Rock formations at Animasola Island

A cottage at Sombrero Island

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Morning at Sta Fe Bantayan Island

“Where is Tañon Strait?” I asked when I received an offer to do a photography coverage of a week-long expedition for Oceana Philippines. Prior to this, I have no clear knowledge of this protected seascape sandwiched between two major islands, Cebu and Negros. The itinerary was enticing enough. We’ll start our journey in Cebu, going up to Sta Fe Bantayan island, then making our way down parallel the narrow strait, crossing it from Moalboal to Negros Oriental then sail all the way down to Dumaguete. Just the thought of the trip excites me as I had never been to most of the places, along and within Tañon Strait.

Beach foot ball

Tañon Strait Protected Seascape

Ask a typical Cebuano or Ilonggo where “Tañon Strait” is, chances are, they wouldn’t know. Unbeknownst to many, the narrow strait, extending 160km long between Cebu and Negros has a total area of 5,182 square km, three times the area of Tubbataha National Park. The 500m deep strait attracts dolphins, whales, sharks and manta rays. The strait was declared a protected seascape in 1998 in honor of the 14 species of whales and dolphins inhabiting the place. The strait also have a 450km shoreline, home to many fishermen, making it one of the Philippines major fishing grounds. The beauty and bounty of Tañon Strait though is under threat from destructive and illegal fishing as well as improper development. Oceana Philippines steps in to bring awareness to Tañon Strait and help preserve its natural wonder.

Watching the moonrise

Road to Bantayan

Our journey starts from Cebu City where we met the rest of the team, esteemed documentary photographer, underwater photographer and fellow blogger Lak Bay who’s handling the social media for Tañon Strait. Coming from Manila as well were staff from Oceana Philippines Yas, Candeze and fellow photographer and travel buddy Oggie. To weave into words and narratives the experience, is author Criselda Yabes. It’s an interesting mix of characters and expertise.

As soon as our van got through the congested streets of urban Cebu, we sped towards north of the island for Hagnaya Port in the municipality of San Remegio. The journey through the countryside took at least four hours since we made a stop at Bogo City for lunch. A pleasant little town with plenty of old Spanish heritage houses turned restaurants. From the port, our vans rolled into the ferry for an hour ride across the sea. It was an opportunity to get some fresh air and stretch some legs out of the van and enjoy wandering around the ferry.

A family enjoying their time at the beach under the moonlight

Sta Fe Bantayan

As we rolled into Sta Fe Bantayan Pier, we could already see beautiful stretch of beaches on both sides. Sta Fe, southwestern tip of Bantayan island is the gateway to the group of islands. There’s also an airstrip but for non-commercial flights. It is interesting how the island got its name though. During the time of the Spanish governor 22nd Governor-general Sebastian Hurtado de Corcuera in the Philippines (1635–1644), Moro pirates would harass and raid island communities to capture slaves and loot. Watchtowers were built around the island and people would commonly say “Bantayan! Bantayan!” which in English means  “Keep watch! Keep watch!” referring to the invading pirates. There were 18 recorded watch towers in the Bantayan Island group though only a few survived this time particularly in Madridejos and Doong Island.

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Beachfront of Anika Island Resort

I’ve always liked resorts with character. As soon as our van drove in at the Anika Island Resort in Sta Fe, Bantayan Island, Cebu, I thought those container-type accommodations look cozy. I haven’t tried staying in one so I was very curious how they manage to repurpose them as lodgings. Anika Island Resort already had a great location along a beautiful stretch of white sand beach on Bantayan Island and the added comfort of their facilities and services makes for a memorable leisure escape.

Our courtyard cottage

Accommodations

Anika Island Resort has a straightforward layout. From the parking area, all the rooms are located on the sides with the center serving as a direct pathway to the beach. Room tpes vary with the farthest from the beach as the cheapest. The Courtyard view, Garden View, Sunrise View, Ocean View and Sunset Villas in order with the Chloe Cafe found in the middle.

With high occupancy at that time, most of our group were on the Courtyard View but we didn’t mind as the beach is only a short walk. The rooms are not that different as well with 12sqm and 14sqm in size difference. It may not look big on paper but once inside, its impressive how they managed to maximize real-estate in this big can. Rooms can either be large queen beds or twin beds. We got a twin bed but they were able to squeeze in a cloths shelf, a side table, small cabinet, LCD TV on the wall and aircondition. The bathroom just have the proper proportion to move around. Not too big nor small either.

To make up for room size though is the spacious terrace with tables and chairs guest can hang around. Each room also have their own broom so people can sweep out any sands outside the room or the balcony. And before going up the stairs up, there’s a faucet for washing up unwanted grime. Wifi strength depends on the proximity of the rooms to the cafe where the router is located.

Inside our courtyard view room

Chloe Cafe

The Chloe Cafe is a piece of work. It is spacious and airy structure made with materials from recycled metal scraps and wood. This place acts as the reception and dining area. I certainly liked their food. Their seafood are fresh and tasty. I also enjoyed their breakfast, especially their dried squid and danggit.

Breakfast of dried squid

Summary

There’s a lot of good things going for Anika Island Resort. Aside from the good location along a white beach, the accommodations are modestly good but full of character at a price that’s just right. Service is warm and accommodating. Despite the distance from the Chloe Cafe to our room, staff would bring our orders with a smile. The place is really a great to relax and especially enjoy with friends and families. It’s easy to get lost in the moment just sitting under the shade on one of their lounge chairs by the beach and comfortably enjoy the tropical scenery.

Anika Island Resort
F. Roska St., Bantayan Island, Bantayan Island, Philippines 6047

Check Rates and Book Online

Room TV View

Room balcony

Access tot he beach

Chloe cafe interior

The post Cebu Stay | Anika Island Resort at Sta Fe Beach Bantayan Island appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Beautiful Talisay Tree by the beach

If the mainland beach of Bantayan Island at Sta Fe is not enough for a true-blooded beach bum, which, mind you is already a lovely stretch based on my personal standard, visitors still have options to explore the nearby islands. Second day, mid-day of our Oceana Photo Safari, we’re still at the start of our exploration of Tañon Strait in which the Bantayan Islands is a part of. The small Virgin Island, about 45 minutes off the coast of Sta Fe by outrigger boat was our destination.

Arriving at Virgin Island

Not So Virgin Island

Commonly known as Virgin Island, the island also goes by the name Sillon Island (sometimes spelled as Silion) and in Google Maps as Pulo Diyot. A low elevation island at about 14 meters on its highest terrain. The island has good vegetation cover on its 25 hectare land with most of its stunning white beach stretch concentrated on the southwestern part of the island until limestone rocks separate  and hides shorter span of beaches on the other sides.

True clear aquamarine waters surround the island, inviting enough to jump-off early even before we docked on its shores. The island is not really as virgin as I thought. It is inhabited and there are already a few provisions for visitors like cabanas, restrooms and other tropical adornments scattered through the beach. No resorts though which is a good thing. Our group found a nice tropical cabana with sawali roof, a curtain of shells and a ceiling fan mounted nicely on a wooden board.

Our friend Lak Bay freediving near the ocean floor

Fantastic Swim

Though there were already a few creature comforts on the island, the gleaming sand under the mid-day sun, the refracting light dancing on the seabed seen through clear ocean waters, the deep cobalt sky with thick cumulus clouds just steadily hanging up in the air, and coconut trees bending gracefully to the sea as if beckoning me to take a dip is simply a picture perfect tropical paradise. We enjoyed our swim, but I guess not as much as the two young boys already dark skinned from playing under the sun since we came in around 10am up to way past our lunch time.

It was hard to resist the waters and even harder to leave. Even from the numerous coaxing from my companions that lunch was already served and there wouldn’t be left for me if I don’t come up yet. Water was absolutely clear. There weren’t as much corals and only a few fish there but it definitely was fun to swim around. A natural pool I’m sure families would enjoy. After a quick lunch, as tempting as to lay down on our cabana floor for a siesta, we looked at the ocean having the same thought in our heads. One more swim before we leave.

Couple of kids playing

Essential Info

Virgin Island has an entrance fee of Php 500 for 1-5 persons and and extra Php 100 for additional head. Cottage or cabana rental starts from Php 300-800. Boat rentals from Sta Fe is from Php 800-1000 depending on the size and haggling skills. Guest can bring their own food. Anika Island Resort can also arrange a tour.

Deep cobalt sky

About Oceana Philippines

Oceana Philippines seeks to restore the health, richness, and abundance of the Philippine oceans. By working closely with civil society, academics, fishers, and government, Oceana Philippines will promote the use of sound science based policies to help ensure sustainable fisheries and vibrant marine ecosystems.

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Getting near the island with inviting clear waters

Our boat docked on the island

Lounge chairs and umbrellas

Way to fish feeding area

Bending tree

Clear waters and sandy bed

Snorkeling by the limestone rocks

One of the kids enjoying the swim

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Flying kites at Bontay Baywalk

Bantayan in northern Cebu is also the northern tip of Tañon Strait protected area. Other than Sta Fe and the Virgin island, we visited Madridejos found north of Bantayan Island facing the Visayan seas. A town formerly known as Lawis, it was the first settlement north of the island. In 1917, the town was renamed Madridejos in honor of Benito Romero de Madridejos the former Archbishop of Cebu. Prior to World War II, Madridejos enjoyed being the “Little Alaska of the Philippines” because of its rich fishing ground. The first canning factory in the country was also here until it was bombed during the war. Our visit with Oceana Philippines seeks to observe and capture the communal richness of Tañon Strait with the people of Madridejos.

A dried fish vendor amidst a colorful tarp

Madridejos Market

The bounty of the sea can be reflected on the variety of goods available at the nearby fish market. Madridejos Market is moderately sized, clean and well organized for a public market. It was interesting to interact to some of the sellers curiously asking why we were taking photos of them and their goods. Sapsap (pony fish), espada (beltfish), danggit (dried fish) and tocino isda (cured fishes) were some of the items they sell and also supply to bigger stores in and outside Cebu. We brought what we fancied (for me the tocino fish and danggit), even the camote fries and pinipig balls from a Senior Citizen Cooperative stall were not spared.

Daing (dried fish)

Busy minding her goods

More variety of dried fishes

Cutting up tocino fish for packing

Kota park sunset on the next page…

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From the river to the sea at Aloguinsan Cebu

It was a relief that after travelling at least four hours from Bantayan Island, then a short 200 meter hike from the roadside, we were welcomed with Cebuano folk songs by the staffs of BAETAS (Bojo Aloguinsan Ecotourism Association). I may not fully understand the words but I could feel the collective liveliness from the group vocals to the energetic strums of the lone guitar. We were on the third day of our Oceana Philippines photo safari at Tañon Strait. We traveled southwest to the town of Aloguinsan to experience their Bojo River Cruise, the towns foremost attraction with activities revolving around the 1.4km river leading to Tañon Strait.

Welcome performance of Cebuano songs upon arrival

Community-Run Eco-Tourism

We were led to the thatched hut overlooking Bojo River which also serves as the reception area for the Bojo River Cruise guests. It was little past lunch so our eyes lit up at the buffet of local flavors laid on a table from the chicken soup, humba, grilled tuna with a few rice cakes for dessert and special blend of tea. While partaking our lunch, we were also oriented about this community endeavour that seeks to preserve the river, the mangrove ecosystem while providing livelihood to the locals.

Short hike to the reception area

The Bojo River Cruise

Our journey starts with a palina ritual, a tradition of wafting smoke along the guest coming from a burning coconut husk in a claypot to ensure safe voyage and in our case, the cruise. An interesting pre-hispanic practice still observed till this day especially during all-saints day. Life vest were given to each which is a requirement. From the small wooden jetty, our outrigger boats paddled through the turquoise-hued Bojo River walled by mangroves and a variety of plants. Our guide was quite knowledgeable of the environ, he cited that there are 96 plant species living by the river which includes 22 species of mangroves. Majority of those are the palm-like mangroves which are used as roof materials for traditional huts. Our guide was even able to distinguish birds from their sounds and there are 61 bird species inhabiting Bojo River.

It was a tranquil cruise as our boatmen paddled towards an inlet where we was saw the transition of the waters from turquoise to a deeper blue. Towering cliff walls open to the vast Tañon Strait like a hole. Interestingly the word “Bojo” pronounced as bo-ho, in Visayan dialect refers to a “hole”, a unique characteristic of this mangrove river cruise. Near the mouth of the cave, guest can snorkel and discover the pristine reef lining the cliffs extending 1km wide across the coastline. It was unfortunate I left my snorkeling gear at our van but one of our companions did snorkel. The dense number of jellyfish dissuaded my interest though.

Wooden pier

River riding through thick mangroves

22 species of mangrove live in the area

The river opening viewed from the sea

Farmhouse sidetrip and essential info on the next page…

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Chilling by the inspiration point at Hale Manna

The road seemed to stretch farther and deeper as the afternoon. We’ve been on the road since mid-morning. While we had a welcome respite from the road travel at Aloguinsan for the Bojo River Cruise, I must admit I was getting a bit antsy to reach our home for the night in Moalboal. Though the ride was roughly an hour and a half long, the road became narrower and dustier as we left the highway. We were looking for Hale Manna Beach Resort and Coastal Garden, located almost at the tip of this short protrusion of a land southwest of Cebu. There was surprise in seclusion as we found out as Hale Manna is bursting with good vibes and energy.

Our room at Hale Manna

Capacious Rooms

It was the blue hour when we checked in at Hale Manna. I couldn’t help but walk across the garden from the main building and look at the promontory to see the Tañon Strait reflecting the purplish residual light. Lanterns lit up as I walk back to the main building where most of the lodgings are located. The common reception area as well as the living room with veranda at the second floor has elegant furnishings, very Filipino in character with touches of oriental elements.

The rooms are enormous! We had a room with four beds but still have space enough for a couple more. Bathroom is a room on its own by its sheer size. During mealtimes service was a little laid back as expected but the food we tried, mostly Filipinos food were done well and worth the wait.

Enjoy the sunset sitting on one of the adirondack chairs

Coastal Garden

A mixture of chirps and tweets from a variety of birds can be heard through the closed capiz windows. Something of a luxury for city folks who find joy and amuse waking up at nature’s natural discorded tune. Seeing the coastal garden in bright light deepened my appreciation on the resort. Malabato trees cling on the cliff walls and occasional chairs, benches and lounge beds scattered on the grounds, each an idyllic spot for solitude.

Afternoons are magical at Hale Manna. After a day of exploring fringed reefs and marvelling at the underwater denizens of Tañon Strait, the coastal garden is a felicitous spot to spend the end of the day watching the sunset. Perhaps comfortably sitting on one of the Adirondack chairs at the Inspiration Point and feel the good energy flowing through the garden. Hale Manna in Hawaiian means “House of Good Energy” and it is definitely flowing boundlessly beyond the main houses’s corridor and expanding through the garden towards the sea.

Hale Manna is an eden. A haven for writers and artist. For weary souls seeking healing. And for us travelers, a place to stop for a while, rest our feet and align our energies.

Main building at Hale Manna

Hale Manna Beach Resort and Coastal Gardens
web: www.halemanna.com
contact:
Becky Pestaño-Smith, Owner
bpsmith888@gmail.com
(+63-032) 316-2603 | (+63-922) 842-4939 | (+63-917) 546-6929

Common area at the second floor

Al fresco dining

Find your spot in one of these breezy huts

Rent a kayak and explore

My ideal reading spot

Shooting at low tide

Sunset on the shallows

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Crossing the stream to Matangkib Cave

“Where are you girls going?” we asked curiously as three girls young girls, ages ranging from 10–12 were going down a trail almost unnoticeable from the dense vegetation just below the famed. “Down to check on our goats by the cave?” one said. A cave? I thought for a moment and probably she was referring to the Sagada Underground River Cave found deep into the valley. “Let’s follow them!” My newfound towering Russian companion excitedly suggested our group. In the many times I have visited Sagada, I don’t remember having visited the cave before so we just followed the young girl’s footsteps.

The trail from the Hanging Coffins

Trek to the Sagada Underground River

I was back in Sagada partly for work but with a couple of companions who were first timers in Sagada. Owell was a fellow photography enthusiast who always dreamt of visiting this highland town, Ilya, the young Russian I met in a hostel in Baguio was travelling the country for only two weeks. With little English and occasional conversation via Google Translate, he asked if he can tag along when I go to Sagada which was fine with me. Being new to the place, I thought of guiding both of them to Echo Valley and the distinct Sagada Hanging Coffins. We actually already met the three girls earlier at the Echo point of the valley who obliged to be interviewed by me for a project but didn’t expect to see them again.

Arriving at Latang Cave where the Sagada Underground River flows

Traverse back to the Road

The girls served as our unexpected guides (though Sagada local government discourage hiring kids as guides and recommends accredited guides). They were swift on their feet but occasionally stops to make sure they were on the right direction. The trail was a gradual descend on a narrow unpaved lush trail. We reached the first cave with a stream flowing through the cave. Old Sagada maps call this the Latang Cave where the Sagada Underground River flows. It was a small opening with huge boulders by the cave mouth that seemed to be neatly cut. I could tell no had entered the cave recently as the spiderwebs remain undisturbed. I also noticed some ferns thriving by the river which if I’m not mistaken are the edible ferns pako which goes to some of the salads here in Sagada.

We climbed the boulders, followed another stream leading to Matangkib Cave. It has a widely spaced cavern but was said to be already closed. I remember a decade back that this cave goes all the way to Bokong Waterfalls but was closed since water levels could rise unexpectedly which isn’t safe for visitors. The rest of the way was pretty straightforward. We’re climbing up the valley again and emerged through large rocks where a jeepney was parked. I’ve always thought where this rock fissure leads whenever I pass by Rock Valley Inn. We said good bye to the girls. We never saw a goat, I guess they didn’t find them. But we were thankful for guiding to the  Sagada Underground River and all the way back to the road.

Latang Cave opening

Going up the boulders

Stream flowing at Matangkib Cave

Matangkib Cave opening

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Sagada Cemetery in the afternoon light

Death and dying is an inevitable subject in conversations when All Saint’s Day and All Soul’s Day approaches. Like an evening conversation over a warm fire one cold and rainy night in Maligcong, from the talks of somewhat paranormal encounters in the rice fields we ended up talking about Igorot culture and the commonality of their beliefs within tribes in Cordilleras. It was interesting to talk to a native i-Maligcong and hear from them their traditions in wakes and still observed but slightly modified in the modern times for practicality. My thoughts immediately shifted to their neighboring town of Sagada only an hour away. The town has seen tremendous visits year long for its unique burial tradition of Hanging Coffins. Much so during All Saints day for its fiery spectacle during the Festival of Lights. But these popular display is just a small part of their traditions.

The Sagada Hanging Coffins is just a small part of their death and post burial traditions

Death is a part of Life

If there’s any place in the country that gives a lot of significance on death, it’s in the Cordillera highlands. In her book “Death and Beyond: Death and Burial Rituals and other Practices and Beliefs of the Igorots of Sagada, Mountain Province”, Sagada native and educator, Dinah Elma Piluden-Omengan, documented the complexities of Igorot rites of the small town Sagada in a rich 200-plus pages of her book. For the Sagada people there are respected rites depending of the kind of death – wether of a newborn, young adult, accident, murder, suicide and of old age.

For newborn deaths, burial immediately follows if the baby died in daylight. For night time deaths, relatives proceeds with the burial upon first light. Prayers for guidance in the afterlife and to leave the people left behind healthy would done by the elders. There’s a week of mourning for the parents before they return to work. Accidental deaths, murders and suicide is the painful kinds of deaths for the Igorots. The ritual of offering a dog which will seek revenge to those who have wronged them. For murders, the assistance of the sun, moon and the clouds to find the killer if have not yet been known.

Death by old age is celebrated. Igorots gives substance to family and it is important as much as possible that each member of the family is present during the wake of the departed. The community is even invited to the gathering. This I experienced when I was I visited Tulgao in Kalinga. We passed by a house where a wake was happening and we were invited to partake on a feat of rice and pork.

The Panag-apoy, a popular All Saint’s Day spectacle in Sagada

Christianity and Modernity

With the arrival of the American Anglical Missionaries early 1900s, Sagada suddenly have another belief infused with their pagan and animist traditions. Ask a native Sagada their name, most likely they would give either their Christian name or their native name. The presence of the Christian cemetery on a solemn hill gives a choice to Sagada natives on how they would like to be buried. Like Maligcong tribe who now shorten some of their post-burial practices for practicality (since pigs are expensive, chickens would do on some rituals), some Igorot tribes also infuse Christian practices for mourning periods. Like Rebecca Angapilan, a Bontoc-Kankanay from Bauko who wrote that in between butchering pigs for offering, their family would pray the rosary now and offer mass during the 9-days of mourning. It’s nice to see people of Cordillera still holding on to their traditions as its what makes them unique. In fact I hope they embrace the tradition as its who they are. Yes the modernity calls for practicality but at leat document, observe and bring importance to this traditions by keeping them alive one way or the other. Death may be constant but cultural traditions and beliefs like this can easily fade.

The St Mary Church, the Anglicans were the first to introduce Christian influence in Sagada in the early 1900s

Remembering the departed

Modernity infused with their traditional beliefs

Solemnity at night

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A pathway at Cedar Hill Cemetery

And I found myself running around, apparently lost in this 32-acre hilly terrain dotted with massive cedar trees located inside the Cedar Hill Cemetery in Suffolk, Virginia. I was supposed to accompany my aunt at the grocery in town but I found a map of the cemetery when we visited the nearby Riddick’s Folly House Museum. From the old train station, the famed public cemetery listed in USA’s National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) was just beyond the fence. I’m such a sucker for maps and finding places like solving a mystery case. I asked my aunt to squeeze in a little time before our chore and she gladly obliged. Even for a moment, I was excited to explore the grounds by Nansemond River where Suffolk community began.

The Watering Fountain

Suffolk was Born

It’s easy to dismiss Cedar Hill Cemetery as just another graveyard. A closer look at some of the elaborate Victorian-style grave markers, monuments and an background of Suffolk history would heighten appreciation on this hilly land south of Nansemond River. Looking back briefly, Suffolk history started when Jamestowne, a settlement co-established by English explorer Captain John Smith way back in 1608, north of the James River, was threatened with starvation. Through Captain John Martin, he explored Nansemond River down south following an oyster bed and decided to settle there but conflict with the Nansemond Indian tribe drove them away. The English colonizers in return ransacked their temples. Despite years of conflict, settlers and their community continued to grow and eventually the Indian tribe lost their lands and lives and those who survived left to join another western tribe by 1744.

The land south of James River surrounding Nansemond river was well suited for Tobacco plantation. One of the early settlers, John Constant built a warehouse on the riverfront in 1720 for Tobacco trade. Eventually, a community grew revolving around the warehouse and was called the “Constant’s Wharf”. In 1742, the House of Burgesses, the first legislative assembly of elected representatives in North America, approved a bill to establish the community as a town and named it as “Suffolk” for “Souther Folks”, same name of the hometown of current governor at that time, Sir William Gooch, in England.

Angel at the Obelisk

The Green Hills Cemetery

In 1802, two and a half acres of land farmed by John Constant and his family was purchased in order to build an Old Union Church also called the Old Meeting House. It was used for community worship and town meetings until 1820 then was moved to Pine Street. The original church cemetery was originally called Green Hills Cemetery.

Nurney Angel and Lamb

The Cedar Hills Cemetery

For a Filipino visiting Suffolk, Virginia, it was a challenge to relate to many of its so called heritage without knowing a little about their history. Cedar Hills Cemetery opened up my curiosity on how the city came to be. The cemetery have survived a major fire in Suffolk in 1837 and the War Between States. The cemetery has expanded to more 15,000 grave sites including the original unmarked ones from 1800s. The challenge now for Suffolk people is keeping the heritage alive from vandalism and natural calamities. There were notable personalities buried here from a USA Congressman, to top government officials in Virginia but the local personalities like teachers, a lion trainer, a woodmen add wonderful stories of the people that makes up the town. Fortunately the Nansemond River Garden Club, one of the organizations in helping preserve this heritage spent a lot of their resources to also beautify the grounds.

I only had a little time to inspect each and every significant spots cited from my map but those that I was able to find clearly displays meticulous craftsmanship. Different tombstones also have different stories and unique symbols engraved that has relevant meanings at that time. Like eye-catching Angel at the Obelisk which symbolizes rebirth, protection and resurection. The beautifully carved Darden Monument for the only son Archibald Allen who died at the young age of 20 have acanthus and lilies, thistle and foxglove decorating his tomb. Nearby is Lucy Allen’s tomb with passion flowers and another tomb shaped like a stump is a headstone for an infant, Janet Whitehead Prentis, covered with morning glory, lily of the valley and ferns.

Other significant sites that are easy to find are the unique zinc-made Confederate Monument, erected in 1889, honoring the fellow soldiers with Thomas Washington Smith during the War Between the States and The Watering Fountain, restored in 2007 by the Nansemond River Garden Club, was used to water plants and supply water to work animals. At restoration, a shallow pond was found at the fountain basin believed to be the source for collected rainwater. There are a lot more details to see in Cedar Hill Cemetery that I think it would take me more than half a day to examine every detail I could find or even take a proper photo of each of them. But I’m glad to have visited this solemn resting ground rich in history and culture.

Cedar Hill Cemetery

North Main Street & Constance Road
757.514.4136

The Confederate Monument

Lucy Allen tombstone adorned with passion flowers

The Darden Monument (rightmost) for the only sone, Archibald Allen, died at 20

The Brewer Godwin Mausoleum

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